Cambodia is a fascinating country. We have only been here three days and will only be here for two more, for various reasons our visit here is short...mainly time, but here are a few impressions and things I have found noteworthy so far.
Cambodia is a poor country - on the scale of the poorest we have seen to date, perhaps on a level equal to Tanzania. Having said this, the people are happy and their smiles are contagious. They all smile! And the country is safe for travelers.
Siem Reap is far more developed and clean than I would have ever expected; they get over 2 million visitors a year. Tourism is rampant here; however, it is easy to get beyond the facade and see beyond this to the real Cambodia.
Many hostels and restaurants are affiliated with orphanages, NGO's and street kid organisations. In other words, it seems as though much of the tourist development is connected to community development. It is easy to stay and eat where you feel you are making some (ever so slight) positive impact rather than just stay or eat anywhere.
Our kids are learning quickly about the devastating history of Cambodia. Missing limbs and other landmine atrocities are up front and centre. Helping people who are helping themselves by selling goods, entertainment or knowledge is a focus, rather than helping those looking for handouts. It is easy to make a real connection to the saying "Get a Life". In fact many working locals and volunteers promote this saying with the street kids and then actually help to train them in some way.
Landmines are a fact of life - don't stray off the beaten track - even to pee by a tree!
The US$ is the main currency. They have Riel but it is so tied to the $ that you can use the currencies interchangeably. ATM's give US$, if you want Riel you have to go into a bank, get out US$ and then convert it. You can pay with a combination of the currencies and it is not unusual to pay in one and get change back in the other.
Corruption is part of life:
-At the land border crossing (the one we went through from Thailand is known as the most commonly used and most disfunctional) it has become a business to have people pay extra (double the visa cost) and presto you get your visa - or you can take your chances and see who your visa officer is and see if you will a) get your visa without delay (not a likely event) b) pay extra because it is demanded (and get your visa in up to 3 hours) c) pay a lot extra and either get it quickly or in up to 4 hours. We opted to support the local "business man". Probably the wrong thing to do, but at least a Cambodian got paid for a service rather than a paid official getting pocket money. At least that is how we reasoned it to ourselves.
-If you get robbed - expect to pay the local police to fill in a report about the robbery!
The local Tuk Tuk drivers are great - you pay a driver and he is yours for the day and will take you around to any of the sights. Ours, Lee, is funny and friendly. He has been at our beck and call for our whole time here. The key is to get one from the beginning who doesn't try to suck you into an unrealistic price for the day.
Locals are paid small wages... a silk weaver is paid $85 per month. Cost of living is cheap - but gasoline isn't! So the low wages are probably ok ( at some level) if you are content to live very locally. We could all learn a little from this (says she who is traveling far and wide).
One day when we have more time - a year is simply not enough- and are less concerned about sitting on boats or buses for hours, I would like to return to this beautiful country and see more of it. Angkor Wat (and all of the surrounding amazing temples ) are worth a visit by all. I am sure Cambodia has lots more to offer - we will just have to be patient and see it another time.
Cambodia is a poor country - on the scale of the poorest we have seen to date, perhaps on a level equal to Tanzania. Having said this, the people are happy and their smiles are contagious. They all smile! And the country is safe for travelers.
Siem Reap is far more developed and clean than I would have ever expected; they get over 2 million visitors a year. Tourism is rampant here; however, it is easy to get beyond the facade and see beyond this to the real Cambodia.
Many hostels and restaurants are affiliated with orphanages, NGO's and street kid organisations. In other words, it seems as though much of the tourist development is connected to community development. It is easy to stay and eat where you feel you are making some (ever so slight) positive impact rather than just stay or eat anywhere.
Our kids are learning quickly about the devastating history of Cambodia. Missing limbs and other landmine atrocities are up front and centre. Helping people who are helping themselves by selling goods, entertainment or knowledge is a focus, rather than helping those looking for handouts. It is easy to make a real connection to the saying "Get a Life". In fact many working locals and volunteers promote this saying with the street kids and then actually help to train them in some way.
Landmines are a fact of life - don't stray off the beaten track - even to pee by a tree!
The US$ is the main currency. They have Riel but it is so tied to the $ that you can use the currencies interchangeably. ATM's give US$, if you want Riel you have to go into a bank, get out US$ and then convert it. You can pay with a combination of the currencies and it is not unusual to pay in one and get change back in the other.
Corruption is part of life:
-At the land border crossing (the one we went through from Thailand is known as the most commonly used and most disfunctional) it has become a business to have people pay extra (double the visa cost) and presto you get your visa - or you can take your chances and see who your visa officer is and see if you will a) get your visa without delay (not a likely event) b) pay extra because it is demanded (and get your visa in up to 3 hours) c) pay a lot extra and either get it quickly or in up to 4 hours. We opted to support the local "business man". Probably the wrong thing to do, but at least a Cambodian got paid for a service rather than a paid official getting pocket money. At least that is how we reasoned it to ourselves.
-If you get robbed - expect to pay the local police to fill in a report about the robbery!
The local Tuk Tuk drivers are great - you pay a driver and he is yours for the day and will take you around to any of the sights. Ours, Lee, is funny and friendly. He has been at our beck and call for our whole time here. The key is to get one from the beginning who doesn't try to suck you into an unrealistic price for the day.
Locals are paid small wages... a silk weaver is paid $85 per month. Cost of living is cheap - but gasoline isn't! So the low wages are probably ok ( at some level) if you are content to live very locally. We could all learn a little from this (says she who is traveling far and wide).
One day when we have more time - a year is simply not enough- and are less concerned about sitting on boats or buses for hours, I would like to return to this beautiful country and see more of it. Angkor Wat (and all of the surrounding amazing temples ) are worth a visit by all. I am sure Cambodia has lots more to offer - we will just have to be patient and see it another time.
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